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Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

Breathtaking cliffs…and a beach?

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

July 22, 2019 by Scott Rising

The Causeway Coastal route is probably the most famous roadtrip in Ireland, but there is also the option of the Wild Atlantic Way. The WAW starts in Derry and ends in Kinsale, a town in County West Cork. As the route stretches 1600 miles, it’s an extremely pliable road trip, as people start and stop wherever and whenever suits their goals. We were too cheap to pay the extra £100 to drop the car off at our intended final destination of Dublin, so we decided we would end our road trip in the city we started, Belfast.

Day 1: Derry to Connemara

Derry is a border town, so before we knew it we had left Northern Ireland and were now in what people to refer to as “The Republic of Ireland.” The funny thing about that name is that it’s not even Ireland’s real name. It’s just Ireland! Crossing into the Republic of Ireland meant a change in currency and a change in road signs. In the UK they use miles, in Ireland they use Kilometers. Our first stop was on the West Coast of Ireland Sliabh Lagh Cliffs.

Sliabh Lagh Cliffs

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We headed out from Derry to Sliabh Lagh. Its location on Google Maps was a bit misleading, and we almost went on an unnecessary hike. Once we found the right spot, the reviews on Google came in super handy. I noticed that everyone was saying there was a second parking lot at the top near the cliffs. We drove past all the poor suckers who were walking, not realizing there was a much quicker way. We spotted a number of sheep grazing along the path as we drove to the cliffs.

As it’s Ireland, the weather wasn’t the most cooperative. We stood, looking out at the cliffs, waiting for the sun to make its occasional appearance out from behind a cloud. We hiked up near the top and look out at the magnificence of the view. The Cliffs of Moher are the most famous cliffs in Ireland, but Sliab Lagh are extremely impressive in their own right. They’re also a lot less crowded and developed.

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We got back on the road and drove to Donegal to grab some lunch. We passed through picturesque Irish towns like Sligo and Westport.

All over Ireland I’ve seen reminders of my mom’s friend who traveled with her on her own trip around-the-world. Joan’s last name is Moran, and here’s a shop in Westport, just one of the many places I’ve seen bearing her name.

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On our last leg to Connemara we saw the roadside beauty of the Wild Atlantic Way. Maybe it was the weather, but with the Causeway Coastal Route, there weren’t many appealing places to pull over and enjoy the beauty of the route. When we arrived in a spot called Doolough, it reminded me so much of Alaska.

You know what to do.

You know what to do.

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We decided to stay in a hostel/lodge right on the Killary Fjord. If I ever find myself back in Connemara, I want to take some time to do some of the adventure sports they have in the region. Killary Adventure Sports was right next to our hostel and they offer things like kayaking, gorge walking, hiking, raft building, rock climbing, and a lot more.

We finished the night by the sunset over the fjord.

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Day 2: Connemara to Galway

Kylemore Abbey & Victorian Walled Garden

Kylemore Abbey

We bought an early ticket to see Kylemore Abbey, which was less than 15 minutes away from the hostel. The flexibility of having a car meant that we were able to beat some of the tour buses there. The museum at Kylemore Abbey was outfitted with a brand new exhibition, tracing the creation and history of the abbey as both a luxurious residence and a residence for Benedictine nuns.

The walled garden was a highlight of the estate, a massive 6-acre plot of land filled with period-appropriate plants from the garden’s heyday. We were there between blooms, but it was still magnificent.

Of course, I really loved the pig pen, which featured a male and female pig enjoying a bit of a rest.

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Wait…is this Ireland?

The water looked inviting but I’m sure it was FRIGID.

The water looked inviting but I’m sure it was FRIGID.

While we continued our drive we passed through Dog’s Bay, and it looked nothing like I would expect to see in Ireland. The sand was white and the water turquoise. We didn’t dare get out and hop in the water. After spending nearly a month in the UK & Ireland, I was ready for a proper beach. It wouldn’t be here.

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We eventually got to Galway, checked into our hostel, and took a short break before heading to our final destination: The Cliffs of Moher. On the way there was literally a castle on the side of the road.

Dunguaire Castle

Medieval times found dead in ditch.

Medieval times found dead in ditch.

We didn’t have time to look around Dungaire Castle, but it was a quick stop-off on the way to the Cliffs of Moher. My favorite part about this castle is that it hosts medieval banquets. If I ever go back to Galway I’m definitely attending one of these banquets. Medieval Times can choke.

The Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

One of Ireland’s biggest tourist attractions and a spot I didn’t want to miss while driving through Ireland. When we first got there i was a bit concerned because the visitor center put up these barriers that obstructed the view of the cliffs, but kept people from falling off. UGH, safety!

Once we walked a bit further the path was less developed, and because we were there later in the day, the crowds had all but gone. What was concerning was seeing all of the jackasses hanging off of the ledge for photos. There was nothing for them to grab onto and nothing separating them from an impossible-to-survive fall off the cliff. They looked to be in their early twenties and it was one of those moments where I felt my age. They were young enough where it just simply didn’t occur to them that they could fall off the edge and die. A study published last year indicated that between 2011 and 2017, 259 people died globally as a result of selfies. To put that in perspective, 481 people died from shark attacks over the past 50 years.

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We ended our night in Galway, exhausted from a long day of driving and in my case, a long day of sitting in a car. Like most places in Ireland, Galway has a big live-music scene at their pubs. I was able to hear it from my hostel and what struck me is how much Irish people love songs like “Country Road”, “Sweet Home Alabama:, and “Don’t Stop Believing.” I didn’t feel so bad missing out renditions of these songs fast asleep in my room.


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July 22, 2019 /Scott Rising
Londonderry, derry, Ireland, Connemara, Wild Atlantic Way, Kylemore Abbey, galway
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